It’s Not Just Size, It’s Shape: A Plus-Size Guide to Breast Shapes & The Bras That Fit Them

Introduction

You’ve done everything right. You followed our guide, took your measurements, and bought a bra in your recommended size. You put it on, and the band is snug, the straps are comfortable… but something is still… off. Maybe there’s a weird gap at the top of the cup, or the underwire is poking your armpit.

If this sounds familiar, you’re not alone. Welcome to the next level of bra fitting, where we reveal the secret that expert fitters know: shape is just as important as size.

Your breasts have a unique shape, and bras are designed to fit different shapes. Putting the wrong shape of breast into the wrong shape of bra is like trying to fit a square peg into a round hole—even if the size is technically correct, it will never be a perfect match. In this guide, we’ll help you identify your breast shape and finally understand which bra styles are destined to be your new best friends.

How to Determine Your Breast Shape: The 90-Degree Test

This is the easiest way to get a general idea of your shape. Stand in front of a mirror without a bra and lean forward, so your torso is parallel to the floor (like you’re touching your toes). Let your breasts hang naturally. Now, look at their shape from the side:

• Are they equally full on the top and bottom? You might be Round.
• Does more tissue seem to be below the nipple? You are likely Full on Bottom.
• Does more tissue seem to be above the nipple? You are likely Full on Top.

This simple test gives you the clue you need to find your perfect bra style.

The Best Bra Styles for Your Shape

1. If You Are: Full on Bottom

• What this means: Most of your breast tissue sits at the bottom half of your breast. You might often experience gaping or empty space at the top of your bra cups, especially in full-coverage styles.
• The Bra Style for You: The Balconette Bra (or Demi-Cup) A balconette bra has a shorter cup (often called a “demi-cup” or half-cup) with a more open, horizontal neckline. This design is a dream for “full on bottom” shapes because it doesn’t try to contain non-existent fullness at the top. Instead, it works with your natural shape, providing incredible lift from below and creating a beautiful, rounded, and uplifted look.
• Also Try: Plunge bras can also work well, as their angled cups accommodate less fullness at the top.
• ➡️ Explore Our Top Picks in: The 7 Best Supportive Bras for Large Busts (look for the Curvy Kate and Panache styles).

2. If You Are: Full on Top

• What this means: You have significant breast tissue above the nipple, giving you a naturally full and rounded look. You might struggle with “spilling” or “quad-boob” in lower-cut styles like plunge or demi bras.
• The Bra Style for You: The Full Cup Bra with Stretch Lace A full cup bra is your best friend. It’s designed to provide maximum coverage and containment, ensuring you feel secure. The secret weapon to look for is a full cup bra with a stretch lace top panel (like the iconic Panache Envy). This flexible lace panel will gently conform to your shape, preventing any spillage while still offering a beautiful look.
• Also Try: A well-constructed balconette with a strong side-support panel.

3. If You Are: Wide Root (or “Shallow”)

• What this means: Your breast tissue starts further out, closer to your armpits, and is spread over a wider area of your chest. You may feel that your breasts are “shallow” (less projected forward). A common problem is underwires that feel too narrow and poke you in the side/armpit.
• The Bra Style for You: Balconette Bras from US Brands You need a bra with a wide underwire to match your wide root. Generally, US-based brands like Wacoal and Goddess are known for having slightly wider wire shapes than some UK brands. A balconette style often has that wider, more open wire shape you’re looking for.
• Also Try: Seamless, moulded t-shirt bras can also be a good match as they often have a shallower, wider cup shape.
• ➡️ Discover Great Options in: The 5 Best Minimizer Bras for a Streamlined Look (many have the wider, shallower cup shape you need).

4. If You Are: Narrow Root (or “Projected”)

• What this means: Your breast tissue starts closer to the center of your chest and projects forward significantly. You might find that many bra cups have gaping on the sides, and the underwires seem way too wide, extending far into your armpit.
• The Bra Style for You: Plunge Bras & Side-Support Bras from UK Brands You need a bra with deep cups and a narrow underwire. UK-based full-bust brands like Panache, Elomi, and Curvy Kate are legendary for excelling at this shape. Look for styles with side-support panels, which are specifically designed to push breast tissue forward. Plunge bras also typically have narrower gores and wires that work perfectly for this shape.
• ➡️ Find Your Holy Grail in: The 7 Best Supportive Bras for Large Busts (the Elomi Cate and Panache Envy are perfect examples).

5. If You Are: Asymmetrical

• What this means: It’s incredibly common for one breast to be larger than the other. This can lead to the frustrating issue of one cup fitting perfectly while the other either gapes or spills over.
• The Golden Rule: Always fit your bra to your larger breast.
• The Bra Style for You: Moulded T-Shirt Bras with Removable Pads or Bras with Stretch Lace You have two fantastic solutions. 1) A moulded cup bra with “cookies” (removable pads). Simply remove the pad from the cup on your larger side for a perfectly even look. 2) A bra with a stretch lace top cup (like the Panache Envy). The flexible lace will stretch to accommodate your larger breast while conforming perfectly to your smaller breast, eliminating any gaps.
• ➡️ Explore Versatile Styles in: Our Top Bra Guides.

Conclusion: Size + Shape = The Perfect Fit

Understanding your breast shape is the final, empowering piece of the bra-fitting puzzle. It explains why some styles feel like they were made for you while others are a constant battle. By combining your correct size with the right bra shape, you can finally achieve a fit that is not just tolerable, but truly comfortable and supportive. Your lingerie should work for your body, never the other way around.